Investigation of the Potential Use of Helichrysum orientale L. in Cosmetics

Project no. 32372 · Status: Kapanmış (Yayın bekleniyor) · 2024

Summary

<p class="ql-align-center"></p><p>This&nbsp;study&nbsp;aimed&nbsp;to&nbsp;determine&nbsp;the&nbsp;chemical&nbsp;composition&nbsp;and&nbsp;potential&nbsp;cosmetic&nbsp;bioactivities&nbsp;of&nbsp;<em>Helichrysum&nbsp;orientale</em>,&nbsp;a&nbsp;species&nbsp;with&nbsp;limited&nbsp;data&nbsp;in&nbsp;the&nbsp;literature&nbsp;regarding&nbsp;its&nbsp;phytochemical&nbsp;profile&nbsp;and&nbsp;biological&nbsp;properties.&nbsp;The&nbsp;aerial&nbsp;(herba)&nbsp;and&nbsp;capitulum&nbsp;parts&nbsp;of&nbsp;the&nbsp;plant&nbsp;were&nbsp;processed&nbsp;by&nbsp;ethanol&nbsp;extraction&nbsp;and&nbsp;steam&nbsp;distillation&nbsp;methods.&nbsp;The&nbsp;obtained&nbsp;extracts,&nbsp;essential&nbsp;oils,&nbsp;and&nbsp;hydrosols&nbsp;were&nbsp;subjected&nbsp;to&nbsp;comprehensive&nbsp;chemical&nbsp;and&nbsp;biological&nbsp;analyses.</p><p>The&nbsp;extraction&nbsp;yield&nbsp;was&nbsp;calculated&nbsp;as&nbsp;20,57%&nbsp;for&nbsp;<em>H.&nbsp;orientale</em>&nbsp;capitulum&nbsp;(HOK)&nbsp;and&nbsp;19,16%&nbsp;for&nbsp;the&nbsp;aerial&nbsp;part&nbsp;(HOH).&nbsp;Essential&nbsp;oil&nbsp;yields&nbsp;obtained&nbsp;by&nbsp;Clevenger&nbsp;distillation&nbsp;were&nbsp;0,04%&nbsp;for&nbsp;HOK&nbsp;and&nbsp;0,02%&nbsp;for&nbsp;HOH.&nbsp;LC–MS&nbsp;analysis&nbsp;revealed&nbsp;that&nbsp;Astragalin&nbsp;(93,49&nbsp;mg/g),&nbsp;Quinic&nbsp;acid&nbsp;(28,91&nbsp;mg/g),&nbsp;Chlorogenic&nbsp;acid&nbsp;(7,46&nbsp;mg/g),&nbsp;and&nbsp;Isoquercitrin&nbsp;(7,56&nbsp;mg/g)&nbsp;were&nbsp;found&nbsp;in&nbsp;higher&nbsp;concentrations,&nbsp;particularly&nbsp;in&nbsp;the&nbsp;capitulum&nbsp;extract.&nbsp;The&nbsp;detection&nbsp;of&nbsp;Astragalin&nbsp;at&nbsp;a&nbsp;remarkably&nbsp;high&nbsp;concentration&nbsp;(93,49&nbsp;mg/g)&nbsp;in&nbsp;the&nbsp;capitulum&nbsp;extract&nbsp;is&nbsp;reported&nbsp;for&nbsp;the&nbsp;first&nbsp;time&nbsp;in&nbsp;the&nbsp;literature&nbsp;by&nbsp;this&nbsp;thesis&nbsp;study.&nbsp;GC–MS&nbsp;analysis&nbsp;of&nbsp;the&nbsp;essential&nbsp;oils&nbsp;indicated&nbsp;that&nbsp;both&nbsp;samples&nbsp;were&nbsp;rich&nbsp;in&nbsp;saturated&nbsp;fatty&nbsp;acids,&nbsp;with&nbsp;Hexadecanoic&nbsp;acid&nbsp;(18,0–15,9%),&nbsp;Dodecanoic&nbsp;acid&nbsp;(16,2–13,4%),&nbsp;and&nbsp;Tetradecanoic&nbsp;acid&nbsp;(12,6–15,5%)&nbsp;as&nbsp;the&nbsp;main&nbsp;components.</p><p>The&nbsp;total&nbsp;phenolic&nbsp;content&nbsp;determined&nbsp;by&nbsp;the&nbsp;Folin–Ciocalteu&nbsp;method&nbsp;showed&nbsp;that&nbsp;the&nbsp;HOK&nbsp;extract&nbsp;had&nbsp;the&nbsp;highest&nbsp;value&nbsp;(289,52&nbsp;±&nbsp;1,80&nbsp;mg&nbsp;GAE/g).&nbsp;The&nbsp;total&nbsp;flavonoid&nbsp;content&nbsp;of&nbsp;HOK&nbsp;(91,15&nbsp;±&nbsp;1,31&nbsp;mg&nbsp;QE/g)&nbsp;was&nbsp;also&nbsp;higher&nbsp;than&nbsp;that&nbsp;of&nbsp;HOH.&nbsp;Antioxidant&nbsp;activities&nbsp;evaluated&nbsp;by&nbsp;ABTS,&nbsp;DPPH,&nbsp;and&nbsp;CUPRAC&nbsp;assays&nbsp;indicated&nbsp;that&nbsp;the&nbsp;HOK&nbsp;extract&nbsp;exhibited&nbsp;the&nbsp;strongest&nbsp;activity&nbsp;with&nbsp;1,18&nbsp;±&nbsp;0,04&nbsp;mg&nbsp;Trolox&nbsp;E/g&nbsp;(ABTS),&nbsp;38,40%&nbsp;DPPH&nbsp;scavenging,&nbsp;and&nbsp;2,77&nbsp;±&nbsp;0&nbsp;mg&nbsp;Trolox&nbsp;E/g&nbsp;(CUPRAC).&nbsp;No&nbsp;significant&nbsp;metal&nbsp;chelation&nbsp;activity&nbsp;was&nbsp;observed.</p><p>In&nbsp;the&nbsp;tyrosinase&nbsp;enzyme&nbsp;inhibition&nbsp;assay,&nbsp;HOH&nbsp;and&nbsp;HOK&nbsp;extracts&nbsp;demonstrated&nbsp;64,56%&nbsp;and&nbsp;64,40%&nbsp;inhibition,&nbsp;respectively.&nbsp;The&nbsp;HOK&nbsp;extract&nbsp;exhibited&nbsp;a&nbsp;stronger&nbsp;inhibitory&nbsp;effect&nbsp;(IC₅₀&nbsp;=&nbsp;238&nbsp;µg/mL)&nbsp;than&nbsp;HOH&nbsp;(IC₅₀&nbsp;=&nbsp;293&nbsp;µg/mL).&nbsp;These&nbsp;findings&nbsp;suggest&nbsp;that&nbsp;<em>H.&nbsp;orientale</em>&nbsp;possesses&nbsp;antioxidant&nbsp;and&nbsp;tyrosinase&nbsp;inhibitory&nbsp;properties,&nbsp;supporting&nbsp;its&nbsp;potential&nbsp;use&nbsp;as&nbsp;a&nbsp;natural&nbsp;active&nbsp;ingredient&nbsp;in&nbsp;skin-brightening&nbsp;and&nbsp;anti-aging&nbsp;cosmetic&nbsp;formulations.&nbsp;However,&nbsp;the&nbsp;<em>in&nbsp;vitro</em>&nbsp;SPF&nbsp;value&nbsp;(0,99)&nbsp;indicated&nbsp;a&nbsp;low&nbsp;photoprotective&nbsp;effect.</p><p class="ql-align-center">In&nbsp;conclusion,&nbsp;this&nbsp;thesis&nbsp;represents&nbsp;the&nbsp;first&nbsp;comprehensive&nbsp;report&nbsp;on&nbsp;the&nbsp;chemical&nbsp;profile&nbsp;and&nbsp;bioactivities&nbsp;of&nbsp;<em>H.&nbsp;orientale</em>.&nbsp;The&nbsp;exceptionally&nbsp;high&nbsp;Astragalin&nbsp;content&nbsp;found&nbsp;in&nbsp;the&nbsp;capitulum&nbsp;extract,&nbsp;along&nbsp;with&nbsp;significant&nbsp;tyrosinase&nbsp;inhibitory&nbsp;activity,&nbsp;highlights&nbsp;the&nbsp;plant’s&nbsp;strong&nbsp;potential&nbsp;as&nbsp;a&nbsp;natural&nbsp;source&nbsp;for&nbsp;cosmetic&nbsp;and&nbsp;dermatological&nbsp;applications.</p>

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