Effects of system training on finger-grip strength and endurance in sport climbers
Makaleler > Tam Makale · 2021
Yazarlar: Gamze Ceyhan, Tolga AKŞİT, Faik VURAL, Rana Varol, Damla Köse, Mehmet Zeki ÖZKOL
Medicina dello Sport, SCI Expanded İndekslerine Giren Dergi, Uluslararası, Wos, 2021, cilt 74, ss 406-419
DOI: 10.23736/s0025-7826.21.03891-6
Özet
BACKGROUND: This study aims to determine the effect of a 4-week system training (ST) regimen on finger-grip strength and endurance in sport climbers. The ST method works on improving the main grip types in climbing by training in an isolated and symmetrical way.METHODS: In this study, 24 recreational climbers were selected as participants and randomly allocated to an ST group (N.=12) or a control group (CON, N.=12) for the 4-week-long training regimen. The isometric maximal voluntary contraction (MVC) test using a climbing-specific apparatus was performed to determine the maximum finger flexor strength for the dominant (D) and non-dominant (ND) hands. Intermittent finger hang (IFH) and dead-hang (DH) tests were performed on three different grips by using a hangboard to assess finger flexor endurance before and after the training sessions.RESULTS: A significant increase was observed in the MVC for the ST group (20.1%, P<0.05), but not in the CON group (6.2%, P=0.24). The ST group showed significant increases for all parameters in endurance tests (IFH, 20.9 s; DHcrimp, 9.3 s; DHpinch, 7.1 s; DHslope, 11.2 s P<0.05).CONCLUSIONS: The 4-week ST regimen is a highly effective training method for improving grip strength and endurance in sport climbing.